Commedia Dell'arte
by Laura Embrey, Design Idea MH56
Send in the clowns! Historic theater characters and the traditional commedia dell'arte performances have far more influence on modern fashion than you might think. Read on to learn the history of this storied style and how to incorporate a bit of playful fashion into your jewelry-making ventures.
History
Commedia dell'arte was a type of professional theater that originated in 1500s Italy and gained popularity throughout Europe until the late 18th century. This historical form of theater often combined a mix of scripted actions with improvisation and witticisms. Though mostly comedic, some stories featured a mix of comedy and tragedy, while others were tragedies in their entirety. The plays often featured popular storylines still in use today, including love, jealousy and old age.
Commedia dell'arte remains well-known due in part to its colorful characters. Each type is said to have its own distinct mask and costume to distinguish its unique characteristics and backstory. For example, Arlecchino wore a suit of brightly colored patches, often in yellow, red, green and brown. Over time, the shape of the patches evolved into diamonds, providing the basis for the Harlequin clown and, even today, shapes one of the most popular villains in the Batman franchise: Harley Quinn!
This style of theater and performance blossomed throughout the early 1700s as more and more styles and subgenres grew. However, as political tension increased and Napoleon and his troops occupied Italy, insurgents wore the commedia masks to disguise their identities while performing protests and other political actions. Because of this, Napoleon outlawed commedia dell'arte in 1797. It took almost 200 years for the practice to be revived in Venice.
Carnevale
Modern Carnevale (also called Carnival) celebrations are a kaleidoscope of color, music and masquerade, deeply rooted in a rich tapestry of history that dates back to the Renaissance. Traditional Carnival masks, known for playfully hiding the wearer's true identity, find their roots in the charming world of commedia dell'arte. These festivities continue to captivate with their elaborate parades, intricate costumes and the mysterious allure of masks that echo the iconic characters of commedia dell'arte, such as the wily Arlecchino and the cunning Colombina. As revelers don their vibrant disguises, they pay homage to a bygone era of theatrical storytelling, blending the old with the new in a celebration that transcends time, connecting the past's theatrical marvels with today's festive splendor.
The Look
Infuse your jewelry designs with the festive spirit of Carnevale and give a nod to traditional Italian theater vibes. It's all about blending tradition with a modern twist to create something unique. Think of it as giving a shoutout to history while keeping your designs fresh. We can leave the long, hooked-nosed masks to the performers (unless that's your thing), but other elements are easy to adapt to jewelry designs.
One of the most prominent commedia dell'arte features is large ruffles, often worn at the neckline or on the wrist. And while modern fashion designers like Simone Rocha, Marc Jacobs and Saint Laurent have embraced ruffles in their creations, they are more all-over—tiered skirts, rows of frills across tops and dress bodices—rather than the traditional neck-ruffs and cuff-frills.
Create these lively accents in jewelry form with fabric, ribbons, leather or seed beads to add luxurious, playful volume to your designs.
Another popular element is the use of diamond shapes and patchwork. Easily incorporate this historic pattern into jewelry designs with glass beads, crystals and almost any other material your heart desires. For an extra punch of fun and festive spirit, design with the traditional colors of commedia dell'arte characters. Red, black and white are often used to symbolize Harlequin clowns, but combinations of red, green and blue or red, green and yellow are also popular.
Who can forget the tragic Pierrot (Pedrolino in Italian), with his billowy white costume adorned with black (or sometimes green) pom-poms and iconic black tear painted on his cheek? Give a nod to this look with fun pom-pom jewelry or strung designs in the lovelorn clown's colors. Want something more subtle? Hang single Crystal Passions® teardrops from earwires or ice-pick bails. These ideas work equally well for Pierrot's sweetheart, Pierrette, too.
While a full-sized mask might be a little over-the-top for everyday fashion, mask motifs in jewelry are a great way to add a dash of theatrics to your ensemble. Attach the classic comedy-and-tragedy mask design to a charm bracelet or pair of earrings, or hang on a fine chain for a minimalistic necklace.
Feeling artsy? Sculpt a mask shape from polymer clay as a focal point for your design (or use part of a silicon face mold to get the basic shape). Decorate with paints, mica powders, glitter, rhinestones, ribbons, satin cord—whatever strikes your fancy.
No matter how you choose to incorporate this playful trend into your jewelry, the most important thing to remember is to have fun with it!
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